I set up the router table with the curved bevel i use for cabinet doors.
Making shiplap siding router bits.
The shiplap is formed by cutting a rabbet into opposite faces of the top and bottom of each plank.
You have to set both the height of your blade and the rip fence to make the 2 cuts necessary for shiplap.
The utility of the shiplap as a precision fitted joint.
L ay the board across sawhorses and run the router along one edge cutting the rabbet half the thickness or a little more of the stock.
A piloted rabbet bit and a router arc all you need to make them.
Usually a depth of half the thickness of the board is best.
I love my set it has been useful for lots of many projects like the cabinet doors i made here.
That way when you install the boards you re left with a 1 4 in.
I have not used a vertical panel bit 1 bit supposedly they need less hp because the diameter is not as large.
I m afraid my router won t like to run the horizontal panel bit as the motor is only 2 1 4 hp bosch 1617evs.
Good catch that the tablesaw cove jig will only remove the height of the carbide or less per pass.
So for a 3 4 thick board that would mean setting the blade height to 3 8 as well as the rip fence to 3 8.
B uy a shiplap router bit set here.
Wide and the other at 3 4 in.
When the rabbeted planks are matched up and fit together they form a flat water resistant.
It s a spendy bit and with a 1 2 shank you need a table to make this cut.
To make a more traditional shiplap joint simply cut one rabbet at 1 2 in.